Kashmir's Forgotten Houseboats Threaten Local Culture and Economy

01

On a frosty morning, Abdul Khaliq Gurra leaves his rented accommodation and goes straight to the Jhelum bund in Rajbagh, Srinagar. There he takes in his prized possession, once worth millions. Khaliq, his wife and their sons shared many cherished moments there.

Khaliq's life took a sudden turn last year. In the early hours of September 16, the family was abruptly awakened by the jolt of their residential houseboat. They narrowly escaped death.

Struggling to speak, Khaliq, 74, reminisces about that night, saying, “It felt like we were drowning.” Khaliq, who lost approximately $70,000–80,000 (about 6,000,000–7,000,000 rupees), recounts how his houseboat sank in the Jhelum waters. After five months, the boat is yet to be repaired.

“Nothing is left with us; we are living on the mercy of God under the naked sky in these harsh winter days,” sobs Fareeda, Khaliq’s wife, wiping the tears from her wrinkled face. She adds, “It will take us a whole lifetime to earn that much before we can repair our home — the houseboat.”

The significance of Kashmir’s houseboats

The Kashmir Valley boasts a rich array of houseboats, providing shelter to the Hanjoora community. The boats create employment opportunities for the people of the valley by promoting tourism on Dal Lake, Nigeen Lake and the Jhelum River

In 1988, when Farooq Abdullah led the government in the then state of Jammu, Kashmir put a blanket ban on the repair, renovation and construction of new houseboats due to pollution concerns in the area’s lakes. Before then, master artists made houseboats in the valley. One such wouste (master) is Ghulam Rasool Najar who lives in the Dalgate area of the city where these masterpieces once came to life.

02

Najar’s handmade houseboats, Khyber and Butterfly, are still afloat on the Dal and Nigeen waters but the octogenarian is restricted to four walls due to deteriorating health.

Najar embarked on his artistic journey as a young boy, prompted by the passing of his father which compelled him to take up the craft himself. Continuing his craft until 2021, Najar faced a setback when he came down with bronchitis. Today, he stands as one of the last surviving artists in the area dedicated to the tradition of crafting houseboats.

Najar ponders, “Who will dedicate themselves to an art that doesn't guarantee a livelihood?” “My sons have chosen careers in different fields to provide for their families.” Najar fixates on a photograph of the Butterfly houseboat, inaugurated by the late Mufti Muhammad Sayeed during his tenure as Union Minister for Home Affairs in 1989.

03

Houseboats’ rich history

Before Najar took up the art, Kashmir artists made houseboats for survival and enjoyment. They were taught by Britishmen fleeing to Kashmir for respite from the Indian soil’s scorching heat.

In the 19th century, the concept of houseboats as enchanting retreats for tourists emerged when British entrepreneur R. Foster launched the Clermont Houseboats on Dal Lake's western shores.

This initiative followed Foster's unsuccessful attempt to purchase land in the Valley, thwarted by laws restricting non-locals from owning property in Kashmir, even during the British Raj.

Butt's Clermont Houseboats, once a fleet of seven, now stand as a cherished haven for diplomats, celebrities and global tourists. The illustrious figures who have graced Kashmir over the past 80 years find their legacy captured in photographs adorning the reception walls.

04

Manzoor Ahmad Butt, owner of Butt's Clermont Houseboats, recounted an example to India's national news organization, NDTV. He told NDTV that an Englishman, enamored with Kashmir, sought to build a permanent home but faced legal obstacles. Upon the Maharaja's suggestion, he embraced the idea of a houseboat, emphasizing water over land.

On August 5, 2019, the national government revoked Article 370 and ended these legal restrictions. The region's rich aquatic landscapes played a crucial role in its history, with boat life tracing back to ancient times. Mughal Emperor Akbar, recognizing its significance, further refined Kashmir's watercraft.

Hakim Sameer Hamdani, author and design director at INTACH Kashmir, explains that early Sanskrit sources reference bathhouses on boats, evolving in the Sultanate period with sailors and boatmen from Gujarat. During the Mughal era, Akbar's fascination with Dal Lake led to enhancements in boat craftsmanship.

A decade ago, the number of houseboats in the iconic Dal Lake, Nigeen Lake, Chinar Bagh and Jhelum River was around 2,000. Now, that number has dwindled to a mere 750.

Struggles to repair damage

Muhammad Shafi, 68, was asleep one night when one of his houseboats burned to ashes in a matter of seconds. Shafi has been in the houseboat business for more than 50 years.

Sitting on the front porch of his four-bedroom Young Lalarukh houseboat with a kangri, or hot pot, over the charcoal–mixed waters, Shafi’s gaze fixes on the half-burnt houseboat parts that continue to haunt him two months after the incident.

05

“It was 4:00 a.m. when the fire engulfed one of the houseboats and within minutes it turned our world into ashes,” says Shafi. His Young Lala and another four houseboats including Safina, Young Safina and Khar Palace burned that night. Three huts burned as well.

In this fire which occurred early in the morning on November 11, three Bangladeshi tourists lost their lives. The fire damaged property worth billions.

“People come and go here, but no one helped us to overcome this trauma,” Shafi points out, in a state of despair. “Except for a check of $181 (15,000 rupees), we haven’t received anything else from the UT administration.”

06

Shafi is burdened with reconstructing his lost heritage and livelihood. In a ruminative voice, he says, “The cost of the finest Deodar (pine cider) wood goes over millions of rupees. One foot costs about $96.37 (8,000 rupees) and each boat demands over 55,000 feet for repairing and 8,000 feet to construct a new one.”

On May 22, 2021, the Union Territory (UT) administration lifted the decades-old ban on the renovation and repair of Srinagar’s floating marvels. The ban was reimposed in 2009 after the then-state administration told the Jammu and Kashmir High Court that houseboats were the primary source of Srinagar’s water pollution.

The administration's long-awaited decision brought a mix of hope and despair to the hearts of houseboat owners, marking a pivotal moment.

For Farooq Ahmad Nagoo, a 42-year-old man, the impact was deeply personal. He lost both of his houseboats. One served as the family's residence and the other, named HB PRINCEHOUSE, was dedicated to hosting tourists, the sole source of income supporting his family.

Reflecting on the incident, Farooq explains, "Both of my houseboats sank in the water due to the prolonged dry spell, which created dry patches in the lake. The ban on repairs only exacerbated the situation, leading them to fall into disrepair." He gestures toward the documents required for the submission process, expressing the challenges in obtaining permission to repair his houseboat.

"Securing the promised land for owners is a strenuous process, involving months and years of navigating bureaucratic offices back and forth," Farooq adds, highlighting the arduous journey faced by individuals seeking to rebuild their lives.

The cost of a houseboat depends on the facilities and size of the houseboat, usually ranging between $120,700 and $2,41,400 (10,000,000 and 20,000,000 rupees).

07

Barriers to houseboat ownership

Rasool Ahmad, a seasoned Shikara rider, skillfully navigates the lively currents of Dal Lake. Owning a houseboat, however, proves to be no small feat for him.

As Rasool expertly guides his Shikara, he reflects on the challenges, sharing, "I can't accumulate enough earnings in a lifetime to call a houseboat my own. The authorities don't issue licenses to new buyers aspiring to enter the business."

The chairman of the Kashmir Houseboat Owners Association, Manzoor Ahmad Pakhtoon, highlights the importance of houseboat waterproofing every year because of their aquatic nature. However, the tourism business endured a severe downturn due to consecutive COVID-19 lockdowns and the abrogation of Article 370, inflicting huge losses for houseboat owners.

"The lack of income made it difficult for the owners to maintain the houseboats financially. Paying for everyday living expenditures proved to be challenging. As a result, a lot of houseboat owners put off maintenance, which eventually caused damage. Numerous houseboats were also damaged by fire, and the lack of government compensation programs further reduced the quantity of these vessels in Kashmir."

08

Following the withdrawal of its semi-autonomous status, Kashmir experienced a significant economic catastrophe. A startling 178.78 billion rupees (around $2.16 billion) was reportedly lost in the first four months following the repeal of Article 370. The travel industry suffered greatly due to a fall in tourists, which was made worse by various nations' "dangerous" travel advisories regarding Kashmir.

Manzoor expresses hope and optimism in response to the authorities' decision to permit boat owners to renovate their vessels. However, he laments that this decision came too late, as the majority of houseboats have already disappeared from the waters of these four naturally endowed water bodies.

Manzoor highlights the arduous process of obtaining permission to renovate these iconic structures: "We have to knock on the doors of officials to get the permission to renovate the houseboats." Despite the establishment of a dockyard dedicated to repairing the crumbling houseboats, Manzoor notes with disappointment, "Not a single boat has been renovated or repaired yet."

One of the primary concerns for Manzoor, shared by fellow houseboat owners, revolves around the accessibility of high-quality wood. "We demanded that the administration provide us with wood at subsidized rates, but it has not been granted yet," he emphasizes.

Manzoor laments the dwindling number of licensed houseboats, revealing, "Only 800 out of about 1,200 licensed houseboats remain as of today." The challenges faced by the once-thriving houseboat industry shed light on the urgent need for support and solutions to preserve this cultural and historical treasure.

In December 2022, a parliamentary committee proposed the development of a rehabilitation policy aimed at assisting houseboat owners in Kashmir who wish to transition away from their traditional livelihoods.

09

Houseboats contribute to the unique charm of the valley. They typically remain non-motorized, anchored or fixed at a specific location. The Parliamentary Standing Committee on Home Affairs emphasized their decomposition resistance, attributed to Deodar wood, and underscored the need for a comprehensive rehabilitation policy.

The committee's report noted that a rehabilitation policy should be devised not only for those currently engaged in houseboat businesses but also for those seeking to exit this traditional trade.

Kashmir’s tourism industry and environmental concerns

Kashmir Valley’s houseboats are the core aspect of tourism in the area. These dwellings draw nemophilists from across the globe to visit Kashmir and spend peaceful nights under the gaze of the Himalayas.

Tourism contributes around 15% to the state's gross domestic product (GDP) and is the backbone of Kashmir’s dwindling economy.

Environmentalists have expressed concern over the sewage that dumps into Kashmir’s iconic water bodies. But Manzoor Ahmad Patlu, chairman of the Kashmir Houseboat Owners Association, does not blame houseboats alone for the deterioration of these waters.

10

Manzoor says: "Due to the lack of a proper drainage system in Srinagar city, all the sewage directly flows into the water bodies, including those around houseboats. However, the recent development by the Lakes Conservation Management Authority (LCMA) is enabling owners to connect their houseboats directly to the drainage systems through piping. This system ensures that the waste will be directly released into sewage treatment plants."

Dr. Bashir Ahmad, Vice-Chairperson at LCMA, regards houseboats as an integral aspect of Kashmiri culture and heritage. He emphasizes the administration's responsibility to assist houseboat owners in the timely repair of their assets, preventing their deterioration.

"Due to prevailing timber scarcity and disturbances in law and order situations in Kashmir, individuals have been unable to address the maintenance needs of their houseboats," notes Bashir Ahmad. He further emphasizes, "It is now imperative for the administration to undertake the restoration of these dwindling houseboats."

Bashir Ahmad adds, "Houseboats play a crucial role in promoting tourism; they constitute an indispensable component of Kashmir's rich heritage, culture and pride.”

11

Rebuilding Kashmir’s Future

Back in the Rajbagh area of the city, Abdul Khaliq Gurra eagerly looks forward to the day when he will see the sunrise, hoping that it will bring back his lost wealth and livelihood.

12

In this future, the tattered doors, disheveled staircase and beleaguered windows will yield to new counterparts, ushering in an era of renewal.

Yet, Khaliq’s heart remains laden with apprehension. He has watched numerous individuals traverse the houseboat’s ruins, yet none have given it their unwavering attention.

This oversight gnaws at him. He yearns to see the revival of this timeworn structure, breathing life into its bones and igniting a resurgence of its former glory.